Ramnarain Bidassee: A Mauritian's Passion for Antique Objects in Paris

Ramnarain Bidassee, an 80-year-old resident of Fort Aubervilliers, has developed a passion for antique objects found at the Paris Flea Market since the onset of Covid-19. Twice a year, he travels to Mauritius with two suitcases full of these treasures, showcasing them in his family home in Goodlands. Meeting this unique character is a refreshing break from the ordinary.

In an age dominated by sophisticated appliances and modern gadgets, the contents of Ramnarain Bidassee's room in Goodlands feel like a step back in time. When visited at home, he is adorned in a costume reminiscent of a mix between a circus performer and a member of the Élysée Palace staff.

"I actually wanted a costume like Charlie Chaplin's, who is my hero. However, the one I found in Paris was too expensive, so I bought a sort of tailcoat that I had tailored by a Mauritian seamstress, adding details to make it resemble the attire of Élysée staff," he shares.

Describing him as a bit "eccentric" would be incomplete without mentioning his love for "anachronistic" objects, which he discovers at the Saint-Ouen Flea Market, the largest of its kind in the world.

This place is perfect for collectors and scavengers in search of antique items. It serves as an open-air museum where authentic antiques mingle with dubious origins. Every weekend, Ramnarain Bidassee finds joy there, armed with only a few euros. "I never spend a fortune and always negotiate. When sellers see me walking away, they often call me back to agree on a fair price," he confides.

The penultimate sibling in a family of six from Goodlands, Ramnarain moved to France at the age of 26 with a student visa to escape the unemployment crisis of the 1970s in Mauritius. With the help of another Mauritian already living there, he secured a job in a clothing workshop in Le Sentier, Paris. "I learned the basics of sewing there, but the salary was insufficient, so I found a part-time evening job as an office cleaner. I managed to make ends meet," he recounts.

Bilingual like many young Mauritians, he showcased his skills when his boss needed to communicate with English-speaking clients. Thanks to a significant contract his boss landed with the Ministry of Finance, Ramnarain transitioned from working in Le Sentier to becoming a full-time employee.

He explains: "I was able to renew my residence permit until I stabilized my situation and obtained French nationality in 1979." Two years later, after a divorce, a second marriage, and the birth of three children, he retired. "Even though I had no material worries, I didn’t want to live alone. My wife still works as a caregiver and has gained a little reputation in our housing block in Aubervilliers," he adds.

In 2020, during the global lockdown, Ramnarain discovered a television show about museums in his home country. "I was already familiar with the Port Louis and Mahébourg museums, but then I came across Guruduth Chuttoo's museum dedicated to antique objects. That sparked something in me, and from then on, I began gradually purchasing vintage French pieces at the Clignancourt flea market. I had a little money saved and just needed to find rare items," he recalls.

The market perfectly reflects his ambitions, featuring everything from quirky items of little value, like steel glasses, wooden figurines, or Chinese pipes, to rarer pieces like a seven-branched Jewish menorah or a Rolex Daytona watch, the price of which remains a mystery to him.

"When I go to the Flea Market, I don’t bring much money, usually no more than 20 euros. There’s another section in the market that sells antiques, but it’s pricier and heavily regulated. Those items are meant for resale; mine are for collecting," he points out.

He has acquired so many items that space is starting to become an issue at home. "My wife has even pointed out that I’m taking over her space with these objects," he says, while his son wonders what he intends to do with such a vast collection.

But he has no plans to stop. "I still have two suitcases filled with items bought at the Flea Market that I intend to bring back on my next trip to the island," he states, contemplating the future of his collection. Who will take care of it after him, especially since most of the items are metallic and require maintenance and preservation? "I’ve thought about it. One of my nieces' husbands assured me that he will take over the preservation of these objects," he replies.

One thing is certain: Ramnarain Bidassee is unlikely to give up his passion for these relics of the past anytime soon, despite the raised eyebrows from his family in Fort Aubervilliers.